Gidday! We're Harry and Sal.

That's Hardwood Harry and Softwood Sal for those of you out there in timberland who hadn't quite twigged! We reckon there must be millions of people around the globe who like us love forests and wood products, who work with timber and support sustainable timber industries.

Note that Harry & Sal are taking a long holiday and won't be answering any more questions after close of business on Friday, 31st March, 2006. The question and answer section of the website will be closed from that date. Wood users within Australia are advised to contact their State timber advisory service for information. To find your local timber advisory service, go to the National Timber Development Program's website at www.timber.org.au, select 'About Us', and then click on the words 'Timber advisory service'. Overseas inquirers will need to contact an industry organisation in their own country.

While you're here, why don't you have a look at our Timber Tips and Projects?

PS. There are hundreds of questions and answers already posted on Timber Talk. If you're looking for information on a particular topic use our handy search engine (to the left).

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Displaying messages 1 to 51 of 19743:

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From: Hardwood Harry (Harry & Sal) at 14:52:18 on 24/Mar/2006
Hello Jane. I think the black marks are most likely iron stains, as you suggest. If there are any eucalypts overhanging the deck, the leaves are rich in tannin, but I'm not sure how easily it is released from the leaves. Anyway, the tannin still has to react with something (such as metal particles) to form black spots . In any event, you will find more information on the US Department of Agriculture's Forest Products Laboratory website at www.fpl.fs.fed.us. Select "Painting and finishing factsheets" from the menu on the lefthand side of the page, and then choose the title "Iron Stain on Wood". A proprietary deck cleaner should remove the stains. Try one that contains oxalic acid.

From: Jane Newton () at 20:11:06 on 23/Mar/2006
We have just laid a deck of batu and it rained today. The wood has developed black spots, some smudged, but mostly small, black dots randomly over the boards. Can you tell me what this may be and how we might be able to remove it. We think it looks like a reaction with metal, but we have not had it in contact with metal filings etc. Could something have happened during the milling?

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From: Softwood Sal (Harry & Sal) at 14:28:59 on 24/Mar/2006
Hi David. Huon pine doesn't look much like King William pine, but if you used western red cedar you would hardly know the difference (as long as you select a piece in the right colour range). If the cabinet is an antique, and it is important to match the wood, you should be able to obtain King William pine from specialty timber suppliers - if not in Sydney, someone in Tasmania could supply it.

From: david manzi () at 18:38:35 on 23/Mar/2006
Hi
Ineed to repair a cabinet made from king billy pine ie replace two draw fronts.i have been offered huon pine but it doesnot have the right colour do you think i can lightly match the timber with stain or should i chase up this small quantityof King billy pine. i live in the blue mtns west of Sydnay. Thankyou David

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From: Hardwood Harry (Harry & Sal) at 14:23:11 on 24/Mar/2006
Hi Diane. I wonder if your timber was supplied 'wet' after treatment. It is more economical, but not so stable as it tends to shrink and sometimes bow as it dries out. I'm not sure what you are describing as "myded". Are you referring to the grooves on the surface of the decking? Maybe this is something you should talk over with the supplier.

From: diane k () at 15:23:40 on 23/Mar/2006
I paid to new bulkheading and cca decking. The boards are bowed and someone told me they are cupped the wrong way. I also see if they were put done on the other side the ends of the cca boards look like they are myded(?). The aren't straight. I need to to do something about this maybe you can tell me the wording to use to describe the problem

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From: Softwood Sal (Harry & Sal) at 14:17:58 on 24/Mar/2006
Hi Frank. The timbers you mention are not too obscure. Western red cedar is widely available around Australia, and the other species should be available from specialist timber suppliers. If you have any trouble you can try Mathews Timber at Vermont. They stock a wide variety of different timbers.

From: Frank Manestar () at 13:15:26 on 23/Mar/2006
Hi, I'm about to build a Kayak and I am at a loss to find out where I can purchase timbers of these species, Western Red Cedar, Alaskan Yellow Cedar, Dark Merranti, Mahogany and Laminated Ash. These I need in 1/4" x 7/8" in lengths up to 6m or in 25mm thick boards so I can mill it down these sizes. If someone could help me with suppliers in the Melbourne Area it I would be grateful.
Thanks Frank

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From: Hardwood Harry (Harry & Sal) at 12:20:39 on 23/Mar/2006
Hi Susan. If you type "heat marks on wood" into your search engine, you will find all sorts of remedies, ranging from a mixture of wood ash and mayonnaise, to baking soda and toothpaste. The general idea is to use a very mild abrasive paste to rub out the mark. This assumes that the mark is in the finish, not the wood. If the heat has gone through into the wood, then rubbing the surface won't do any good and you may have to refinish the tabletop. However, try the easy way first!

From: Susan Jarratt () at 14:36:06 on 22/Mar/2006
how do I remove heat rings from a light varnished wooden table? I've herd about steel wool methylated spirits, igniting the meths etc. etc.

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From: Softwood Sal (Harry & Sal) at 12:17:09 on 23/Mar/2006
You will find some good general information about installing flooring on the Lowe's website at www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=howTo&p=Improve/WdStpFlr.html#5. They are pretty wide boards, so we would recommend nailing through the face of the board with two nails at every crossing.

From: Thomas Greenier () at 11:43:02 on 22/Mar/2006
I am installing a softwood floor(pine)and am a little unsure about what to use for nails. The boards are 1X10s and not tonge and grove. I do not want to use screws, I think they would look unsitelly. Do you have any suggestions?

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From: Hardwood Harry (Harry & Sal) at 11:20:18 on 23/Mar/2006
We usually recommend brand-name products for decks and verandahs because they contain anti-mould ingredients. Linseed oil is inclined to turn black if mould gets into it. However, if you want to give it a go, a 50-50 mixture should be OK.

From: owen (hislarf) at 11:13:43 on 23/Mar/2006
what % of linseed oil to turpentine for treated pine verasndahs

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From: Softwood Sal (Harry & Sal) at 11:16:33 on 23/Mar/2006
Dear Jason, Thanks for your email about Paulownia. We were interested to find someone trading in this species. It certainly has a lot of good qualities, but I would be cautious about the durability issue. According to our info, it's not "highly rot resistant" when placed in hazardous situations.

From: jason () at 22:30:12 on 22/Mar/2006
dear hardwood, just been trolling the net on my favorite subject and found your site, Paulownia timber is a native of china and asia you will find that this species is highly rot resistant, it also has one of the highest strength to weight ratios. Density is 3 times that of balsa, we have been selling paulownia block board for years here in australia queensland, our main customers are boat builders, coach and bus manfacturing.
and compared to western red cedar its about one third the price and is better for my health too!!
cheers jason

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From: Hardwood Harry (Harry & Sal) at 10:53:51 on 23/Mar/2006
There are many floor finishes on the market, but broadly they divide into oils and polyurethanes. The most popular type of oil is tung oil which actually contains a small amount of polyurethane. It is less hard-wearing than straight polyurethane, but does not stick the edges of the boards together. Polyurethane is more inclined to stick the boards together, causing edge bonding, or 'grouping' of boards. It seems that water-based polyurethane is less inclined to cause edge bonding than solvent-based polyurethane. On the other hand, solvent-based polyurethane is generally harder than water-based. When choosing a finish you need to consider how you intend to use the floor. For example, if the floor is in a low wear area such as a bedroom, it is not particularly important what you use. Similarly, if the floor is in a high traffic area, but protected by scatter rugs, the finish is relatively unimportant. However, if you are relying on the finish to resist wear and tear, then you will need to choose a hard wearing product. Talk to your floor sanding company about it beforehand. Ask if they have ever encountered 'edge bonding' and what they do to avoid it. We advise that the first coat should never be thinned because it makes it run. We also recommend application with a roller rather than a mop applicator, because a roller gives more control over the finish and it is less likely to penetrate into the tongue and groove joint. The contractor may have other strategies to avoid 'edge bonding'. You could also ask the supplier of the flooring what they recommend.

From: Lorna Peach () at 20:24:21 on 22/Mar/2006
I am about to lay some radiata pine floooring in my house and would your advice on how to best protect the floor once it is laid.
Thankyou.

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From: Softwood Sal (Harry & Sal) at 10:38:38 on 23/Mar/2006
Hello Evan. If you look up a timber merchant in the Yellow Pages and give them a call I should think they would give you samples out of their offcut bin. Give it a try!

From: evan () at 07:24:02 on 23/Mar/2006
where can i get samples of both hardwood and soft wood in the sydney area

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From: Hardwood Harry (Harry & Sal) at 10:32:41 on 23/Mar/2006
Hi Pablo. You will find how to work out the number of sheets of paper produced from a tree on the "How Stuff Works" website at www.howstuffworks.com/question16.htm.

From: Pablo () at 01:23:55 on 23/Mar/2006
We really need to ask a question. Here goes: How many pieces of paper are made from one tree?

Thank you very much,
Pablo Needs An Answer

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From: Softwood Sal (Harry & Sal) at 09:58:20 on 23/Mar/2006
Hi Colin. We will post you a set of doll's house plans in tonight's mail. (We have deleted your address from our Q & A page for privacy reasons.)

From: Colin Stiller () at 08:52:53 on 23/Mar/2006
Hi Harry & Sal,
I would really appreciate it if you could please send me a copy of your doll's house plans. Thanking you,
Colin.

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From: Hardwood Harry (Harry & Sal) at 09:49:49 on 23/Mar/2006
I'm not sure if any Australian companies export to Belgium, but a company called Porta Mouldings might be able to help. You can visit their website at www.porta.com.au.

From: Vermeylen paul () at 04:53:02 on 21/Mar/2006
We are looking for wooden broom handles made off
" RADIATA PINE " with diameters of 23,5 and 28 mm.
Lengths 1200 / 1300 / 1400 / 1500 / 1600 and 1700 mm.
Quantity : 1 container monthly

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From: Softwood Sal (Harry & Sal) at 11:40:43 on 22/Mar/2006
Dear Steph, I think you have picked a fairly obscure wood. There isn't much info about Mackay cedar. In fact, we can't find any data at all, except that its botanical name is Albizzia toona and alternative common names are Acacia cedar or red siris. It's a red wood, similar to red cedar, but other than that, all we have is info about the tree (leaves, flowers, etc.) Timber Queensland might be able to provide some more details. You can phone their advisory service on (07) 3254 1989.

From: steph baretta () at 21:53:16 on 21/Mar/2006
i wanted to know more about mackay cedar!! i have been told to design a wookpeice for a high school design class and in this i am required to give info on the particular wood type we are going to construct it from and this is the only helpful web site i've yet come across and if its not too much trouble i would love it if you could tell me a little about the duribility and usefulness of using it to construct bedroom furnishings.....thanks lots
steph!!
p.s. forgot to tell you what type i chose ooops its mackay cedar!!
thanks again

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From: Hardwood Harry (Harry & Sal) at 10:29:44 on 22/Mar/2006
Howdy Ross. I wouldn't have thought Cooktown ironwood was available in Victoria, but it's possible Mathews Timber at Vermont might be able to help. They deal in specialty timbers. Failing that, you might have to source it from up north. Timber Queensland might be able to help. You can phone their advisory service on (07) 3254 1989.

From: Ross () at 19:49:42 on 21/Mar/2006
Howdy,
I'm looking to purchase some cooktown ironwood, but am having trouble finding a retailer in North East Vic, can you please point me in the right direction.
Cheers

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From: Softwood Sal (Harry & Sal) at 10:25:22 on 22/Mar/2006
Gidday Ethan. There should be lots of info about meranti on the net, but if you are having trouble finding it, leave another message with your fax number or postal address and we will send you a data sheet.

From: Ethan Woolley () at 18:41:37 on 21/Mar/2006
Hay I was wondering if you could send me some in dpth information about Merant. Its for a school assignment, been having alot of trouble finding information about it,
cheers

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From: Hardwood Harry (Harry & Sal) at 10:18:47 on 22/Mar/2006
Hi David. You could bolt the bearer straight onto the concrete as long as it's treated to H4. Regarding a membrane to isolate the wood from the concrete, an even better idea is to raise the bearer slightly off the concrete by putting a spacer under the bolt. Then the underside of the bearer will be able to dry off after rain.

From: david () at 18:24:59 on 21/Mar/2006
I am planning a low level deck using permapine bearers & joists with hardwood deck.I wish to know if it is ok to bolt the bearers to the slabedge & if so should you use a membrane between the timber & concrete,I have been searcing the net for a answer. thankyou

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From: Softwood Sal (Harry & Sal) at 10:11:06 on 22/Mar/2006
Hello Jason. There is a website with heaps of info on cypress pine. Go to www.intad.asn.au/materials/wd_cypss.asp and scroll down to the bottom to find the pics.

From: jason king () at 16:10:59 on 21/Mar/2006
currently doing assignment on cypress pine ...would greatly appreicate if you could help me out..please please
i need applications
comparisions with raidarta pine/origion
cost per unit/meter
best ways to install and a few pic's

have you seen movie when harry met sally i thoutht it was a ripper thanx

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From: Hardwood Harry (Harry & Sal) at 09:48:45 on 22/Mar/2006
Too many trees to list here - there are about 500 species of Eucalyptus alone.

From: barking blade () at 07:39:47 on 22/Mar/2006
hey, can you list all the trees in Australian forests? its for school thanks!

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From: Softwood Sal (Harry & Sal) at 11:09:09 on 21/Mar/2006
Hi Terry. Sandalwood grows in WA and Queensland. Your best contact in Queensland is the Department of Primary Industries (DPI), which looks after sandalwood in that State. They have a website at www.dpi.qld.gov.au which will give you contact details. In Western Australia, perhaps someone at the Forest Products Commission could help. You can visit their website at www.fpc.wa.gov.au. I'm afraid we don't have any data on growing cashews, but perhaps the same organisations could help.

From: TERRY JACKSON () at 16:26:10 on 18/Mar/2006
HI,
I AM STARTING A PROJECT ON A ABORIGIONAL COMMUNITY FOR THE GROWING AND HARVESTING OF CASHEWS CAN YOU DIRECT ME TO THE SOURCE OF RELEVANT INFO REGARDING THIS FARMING METHOD
I AM ALSO STARTING A SANDALWOOD PLANTATION PROJECT ON A ABORIGINAL COMMUNITY AND NEED INFO. FROM PROPAGATION TO MARKETING. CAN YOU DIRECT ME TO SUITABLE WEBSITES
CHEERS
TERRY JACKSON

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From: Hardwood Harry (Harry & Sal) at 11:02:38 on 21/Mar/2006
Hello Mischa. One difference is that radiata pine is a softwood, and meranti is classed as a hardwood.

From: mischa () at 22:41:20 on 18/Mar/2006
what is the difference between radiata pine and meranti

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From: Softwood Sal (Harry & Sal) at 10:33:54 on 21/Mar/2006
Hi Khoj. There isn't a great deal of F27 KD hardwood produced in Victoria, but there may be some messmate in the marketplace. On the east coast, ironbark, spotted gum and blackbutt all achieve F27 and are all available, depending on locality.

From: khoj () at 15:44:15 on 18/Mar/2006
Hi, which breed of timber would usually be used in victoria for window lintels for a stress grade of F27 KD HWD

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From: Hardwood Harry (Harry & Sal) at 10:15:39 on 21/Mar/2006
Hello Collin. There are span tables published for most of the common types of timber, including "engineered" timber products. If you could confirm which country you are in and what sort of timber you intend to use, we will try to point you in the right direction.

From: collin () at 09:57:57 on 20/Mar/2006
how do i find what thickness of timber is needed for what distance(Span)between supports. eg have distance of 3mt betwwen supports what thickness is the beams to be

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From: Softwood Sal (Harry & Sal) at 10:11:08 on 21/Mar/2006
Hello Stacie. Do you have to do an experiment for a school project? Let us have some more details (eg. what year are you in) and we will see if we can think of something.

From: STACIE VAN SOEST () at 14:54:18 on 20/Mar/2006
do you no any experoments on hard wood and soft wood

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From: Hardwood Harry (Harry & Sal) at 10:37:22 on 20/Mar/2006
Hi Lizl. We have a design for a cubby house on our website. Log on to Harry & Sal's Timber Talk and you will see a line that says: "While you're here, why don't you have a look at our Timber Tips and Projects?" The words "Timber Tips and Projects" are a hyperlink and if you click on it a list of projects will come up including one called a Playhouse.

From: Lizl Evetts () at 16:23:04 on 17/Mar/2006
Please send me some plans for cubby houses. We would like to create some fun for our household of 4 in the backyard.
We would prefer the ones on poles, with a slide and sandpit underneath (with a playgym attached to it or something). Thank you

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