Gidday! We're Harry and Sal.

That's Hardwood Harry and Softwood Sal for those of you out there in timberland who hadn't quite twigged! We reckon there must be millions of people around the globe who like us love forests and wood products, who work with timber and support sustainable timber industries.

Note that Harry & Sal are taking a long holiday and won't be answering any more questions after close of business on Friday, 31st March, 2006. The question and answer section of the website will be closed from that date. Wood users within Australia are advised to contact their State timber advisory service for information. To find your local timber advisory service, go to the National Timber Development Program's website at www.timber.org.au, select 'About Us', and then click on the words 'Timber advisory service'. Overseas inquirers will need to contact an industry organisation in their own country.

While you're here, why don't you have a look at our Timber Tips and Projects?

PS. There are hundreds of questions and answers already posted on Timber Talk. If you're looking for information on a particular topic use our handy search engine (to the left).

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Displaying messages 6851 to 6901 of 19743:

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From: Linda (linda0@optusnet.com.au) at 18:36:37 on 13/Apr/2004
I would like to know if ironbark timber is resistant to termites. I saw at the garden show, Bill Molyneux's beautiful native garden, in which he had used ironbark planks for decking. What other timbers that are termite resistant might be suitable for a deck here in the sands of Seaford, Vic. Thank you for the opportunity to ask the question.

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 09:59:30 on 14/Apr/2004
Hello George. That's why the secret nail gun has been developed - to overcome the problem of trying to correctly angle a standard gun. You will find it much easier to use the secret nail gun.

From: George (georgephani) at 17:21:25 on 13/Apr/2004
I have pre-finished T&G timber - my base floor is 12 mm ply.
I want to secret nail the timber to the ply. Can i use a standard air gun rather than a 'secret nail gun ' ?.I can use a chizle to hold the t&G together while i shoot the nail . But how do I correctly angle the standard gun to shoot in at the right angle without damaging the surface of the timber.

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 17:24:08 on 13/Apr/2004
Hi Tristram. If the steel columns are closed at the top, then termites won't be able to climb up unseen, inside the columns. To gain access to the timber above, they will have to build shelter tubes all the way up the outside of the columns, which will be highly visible during routine inspections. If the columns are hollow with open tops, you may have a bit of a problem. It depends what happens at the top of the columns. If there is an untreated wood product sitting on top of the columns, then the termites could go straight into it without being seen. If there is a gap, then they will have to continue their shelter tube until they reach the wood which again will reveal the fact that they are present. Detection is all about making them visible. It's relatively easy to detect the presence of termites if they are forced into the open. That is the purpose of ant caps. Likewise, that is the purpose of closing off the ends of hollow supports, so they can't gain entry to the house without being seen.

From: Tristram Carfrae (tristram.carfrae@arup.com.au) at 18:09:18 on 09/Apr/2004
I am building a new house with suspended timber floors on a steel frame. I specified termite resistant treated particle board flooring but the builder has used ordinary particle board. He has also erected all the internal and external walls so replacing the particle board will be very difficult.

Is there any type of post fix treatment that I can use to regain the termite resistance?

The board is at all times more than 400mm above the ground (which is solid sandstone), supported on steel purlins (acting as joists), beams and columns. There are no ant-caps. The house is in St Ives, NSW and adjoins Garrigal National Park. Do I need termite resistant particle board?

Any help you can give would be much appreciated.

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 17:13:06 on 13/Apr/2004
Gidday Barry. Yes, it seems a bit odd that coachwood would come from Germany. It was certainly used for gunstocks in Australia, but it's a native of the central and north coast rainforests of New South Wales. It has never been a high volume timber, but I suppose small quantities might have been exported for specialty uses. Alternatively, it might not be the original gunstock, as you say. It might also be a different, but similar-looking European wood - perhaps cherry.

From: Barry Smith (baz24@optusnet.com.au) at 16:54:22 on 13/Apr/2004
Gidday Harry & Sal,
Iam currently refurbishing an old rifle, I have just had the the stock redone by a french polisher as it was in need of a proffesional, he has told me the timber is coachwood, I have just been surfing the net trying to find info. on coachwood with out much luck, but found your site, the rifle is German and made in 1974, everything I find on coachwood is related to Australia, did they use coachwood in Europe, or maybe this is not the original stock ?? Any help would be appreciated, many thanks, Barry

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 17:02:16 on 13/Apr/2004
Hi Robyn. "Live sawing" and "sawing around" are just two different methods of sawing logs at the sawmill. The timber produced by these methods can be used for any of the usual purposes that timber is used for. If you need info on what the terms actually mean, leave another message with your fax number or postal address and we will send you details.

From: robyn (robyn407@hotmail.com) at 16:34:48 on 13/Apr/2004
i have an assignment question asking for two examples of uses for timber produced from live sawing and two from sawing around? i am really stuck!

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 16:46:12 on 13/Apr/2004
Hi Peter. Indonesian mahogany is a fine timber and has been planted to produce material for the furniture industry. It is relatively soft, but could be used for flooring as long as people understand its limitations. Its Janka hardness rating is about 3.6 kN, compared with brush box at 9.5 kN, so brush box is about 2½ times as hard. On the other hand, mahogany is harder than Baltic pine (2-3 kN) which has been a popular flooring timber for many years.

From: Peter Woods (ssa@spacespan.com.au) at 16:34:00 on 13/Apr/2004
I am looking for information on Indonesian Mahogany and its suitability for flooring applications, e.g. hardness in comparison to say brushbox, etc.

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 16:38:13 on 13/Apr/2004
Hi Mike. Cypress pine makes excellent flooring because it is relatively hard (for a softwood). There shouldn't be any difference between cypress and Tas oak with regard to shrinkage, as long as each is properly kiln dried. In fact, the total shrinkage of cypress is less than Tas oak during the whole drying process from the green condition.

From: mike (dyes@tpg.com.au) at 15:02:36 on 09/Apr/2004
How suitable is cyprus pine as a flooring? Looking at T&G over chipboard. Is a hardwood such as Tassie Oak better? Believe shrinkage is more with CP but is the difference a worry?
Thanks

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 16:33:27 on 13/Apr/2004
Gidday Peter. I think the best timber in your part of the world for building a wooden hot tub would be celery-top pine. You can find out more about this wood from the Tasmanian Timber website a www.tastimber.tas.gov.au. I'm afraid we don't have any details on how to build one, but it's possible your State library could help.

From: peter searle (itouch@iprimus.com.au) at 16:15:18 on 13/Apr/2004
could please help me i am looking for info on how to bulid
a wooden hot tub & the best wood to use,i am from tasmania.

thankyou

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 16:23:01 on 13/Apr/2004
Hi Tim. I'm not sure that the production of cricket bats has changed all that much, but I could be wrong. For more info I think you will have to contact a sporting goods company, for example Dunlop Slazenger. They have a website at www.dunlopsport.com.au but I couldn't get much out of it as it appears to be under construction. You might try phoning them on 1300 361 540 to see if they can provide any details. You could also have a look at the website of the Anglian Willow Service in the UK. Their address is www.awillow.freeserve.co.uk.

From: tim (nair_28@hotmail.com) at 16:02:52 on 13/Apr/2004
well i have to look at the production of cricket bats 50 years ago compared to the production of cricket bats today for a school research project and i was wondering if you could provide me with any usefull information that would help me.

a flowchart would really help!!!

thanks

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 16:03:18 on 13/Apr/2004
Hello Marc, and thanks for the nice remarks about our website. I'm afraid I'm not going to be able to live up to your expectations, since I don't really know the answers to your questions. To find out exactly what kind of Acacia you have, you could send a sample to CSIRO at Clayton. They have expert staff who can identify wood samples for a fee. Regarding uses for the timber, tall straight logs with few branches generally make good sawmill material, but of course it depends whether there is a demand for that type of timber. Some wattles have an attractive red-brown heartwood resembling Tasmanian blackwood. If that applies to your timber, and it is relatively knot-free, it may find a market for joinery. You will need to talk this over with a country sawmill in the locality. The further you have to transport the logs, the less attractive it is as an economical proposition. With regard to replanting with mountain ash and myrtle, the Department of Natural Resources & Environment would be a good starting point for advice. If they can't help, they should be able to point you in the right direction. Sorry I can't be more specific, but your questions are a bit out of my field.

From: Marc (tropicalfish69@hotmail.com) at 14:52:46 on 09/Apr/2004
Hello there... love this site. I have recently purchased 70 acres (700 metre altitude) of Mountain Ash Wet Forest with patches of Myrtle Beech Rainforest and Mountain Grey Damp Forest. Land is located near Yarra Juntion in Victoria. Unfortunatly a fair bit of this land was logged in 1975 and correct regeneration practices were not undertaken. This has resulted in an overabundance of Acacia overstory that is starting to collapse. Most of the trees have a DBH of approx 400mm and are very tall as well as being straight. I would like to restore the land to its natural state prior to logging. Not sure exactly which Acacia they are as i seem to get a different answer from every person i ask (either Silver Wattle or Black Wattle) - they have feathery leaves, a dark trunk and they make yellow flowers late in the year.
My questions are:
1. What can i do with the Acacia trees when i remove them? Firewood, saw logs, pulp, other uses perhaps? Would be a shame to let them rot away.
2. Can the branches be used for anything?
3. What sort quantity would need to be removed to make it economically viable to sell the timber?
4. Which is more valuable - Silver Wattle or Wattle?
5. Where on my block should i plant Mountain Ash, Mountain Grey or Myrtle. I assume that the Myrtle is most suited to the shady valleys where it is regenerating well.
Hope i havent bombarded you with too many questions... very keen to learn more about what i have purchased
Your help will be greatly apprieciated.

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 15:50:28 on 13/Apr/2004
Hello Aaron. We could post you a flow chart, but we don't have one in electronic form that we can e-mail. If you would like us to post one to you, leave another message with your postal address.

From: Aaron Hocking (ghocking@agl.com.au) at 15:47:24 on 13/Apr/2004
Hello Harry & Sal. I an doing a year 8 assignment on how to make timber. Can you please send me a flowchart and any information you may have on how trees are converted into usable timber...thanks Aaron

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 15:48:50 on 13/Apr/2004
Hi Linda. If you could find out what finish was applied to the wood in the first place, you could re-coat with the same thing. Failing that, I would suggest Danish Oil as manufactured by Cabot's and others.

From: Linda (lmartin@bigpond.com) at 14:39:22 on 09/Apr/2004
Hi Harry and Sal,
My timber blinds are looking a bit dull and dry from the sun. I don't know which wood they are made from but do you have any ideas how I could restore them to look nice and healthy again.

Thanks so much
Linda

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 15:46:27 on 13/Apr/2004
Hi Gabe. The horizontal (Anodopetalum biglandulosum) grows in the wet south-western part of Tasmania. It is not a commercial timber and consequently there is little information about it on the net. We could post or fax you a brief data sheet about it, if you would like to leave another message with your contact details.

From: Gabe (gabrielle@ssc.net.au) at 21:56:38 on 08/Apr/2004
Could you please give me some information and a picture on "horizontal scrub" from Tasmania.

Thank you

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 13:28:28 on 08/Apr/2004
Hi Colin. I don't know what part of Australia you are in, but we understand that Fred Stewart acts as a consultant, sourcing specialty plywood and board products. You can phone him on (08) 8337 6982, or on mobile 0409 406 964.

From: Colin Rankin (crankin@acept.com.au) at 12:17:31 on 08/Apr/2004
I wish to find slotted plywood for cable tray base

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 10:11:13 on 08/Apr/2004
A jarrah tree is a eucalypt (botanical name Eucalyptus marginata).

From: florent devos (florent_devos@hotmail.com) at 09:37:06 on 08/Apr/2004
explain what is a jarrah tree

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 10:08:26 on 08/Apr/2004
Dear Sirs, We do not trade in wood products ourselves, but we are happy to post your message on our website so any interested parties can see it and respond directly to you.

From: Omar Gonzalez R (ogonzalezrojas@yahoo.com) at 02:16:22 on 08/Apr/2004
Hello Harryand Sal. I will like to have information about you and may we can make business together i am in the wood business and i will like to keep your knowledge of this business of mahogany wood, cedar wood and caribeanpinewood,and oocarpapinewood to have some contacts with you. Let me know also if you make me a contact what else i have to do, Please let me know about you.
sincerly yours.
Lic Omar Gonzalez Rojas
Gonzalez Rojas Lumber Company

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 10:04:33 on 08/Apr/2004
Hi Aster. Some work has been done in Australia by State Forests of New South Wales to determine the carbon content of hardwoods. In 1999, State Forests set up a Carbon Verification Program. You can read more about it in their newsletter "The Bush Telegraph". This publication can be viewed on line at www.forest.nsw.gov.au and you need to select the August-October 1999 issue. The Autumn 2003 issue includes an article about a computer program that predicts the carbon sequestration in plantations, so that might be of interest.

From: aster (billabong_oz@hotmail.com) at 21:22:15 on 07/Apr/2004
hi! well i asked a question about my assignment just before. but i think i already found something. carbon sequestration in vegetation. but i guess that's got nothing to do with timber. but thanks anyways!

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 09:58:01 on 08/Apr/2004
Hi Bob. I don't know of a product called Fiesta, but any exterior oil product would do. Maybe decking oil would be a good choice, since these products contain anti-mould chemicals.

From: Bob Palmer (palmerhse@ozemail.com.au) at 19:19:01 on 07/Apr/2004
I am seeking the manufacturers of Fiesta Western Red Cedar Oil, that is if they still exist. I used this product years ago and was always satisfied with its results. I have just installed a outdoor spa which has cedar panelling on the outside and would like to find Fiesta Oil again if possible. Otherwise I have been told by the manufacturer to use "cedar oil", can ytou recommend asn alternative to maintain the natural finish.

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 09:54:47 on 08/Apr/2004
Hello Mark. Yes, we can send you a flow chart, but we will need your postal address. If you would like a copy, leave another message with your details.

From: Mark (markmaddison@hotmail.com) at 17:26:46 on 07/Apr/2004
Hey...can you please send me a flowchart on how trees are converted into usable timber...thanks

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 16:37:52 on 07/Apr/2004
Dear Sirs, We do not trade in wood products ourselves, but we are happy to post your message on our website so any interested parties can see it and respond directly to you.

From: Esser Marketing (snaags@vsnl.com) at 15:42:13 on 07/Apr/2004
you had indicated that there are four manufacturers of MDF
and interested in importing Wattle Extract in India. We
have vide experience in leather trade and are having contacts with various leading tanners. Presently representing a South African Co. for mimosa powder and interested in wattle extract solid/qubrocho extract and our
suppliers in USA will take up the entire production - may be 2500 tons approx. perannuam and we have infrastructure to
sell this qty. Payment red clause L/c- ie 50% can be drawn on L/c advice and balance on shipment. Better terms also possible if proper discount is given and price competitive and quality acceptable. Pl. reply immediately so that we
arrange for a meeting with our US supplier to come to an long standing agreement. Pl. reply urgently

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 16:34:54 on 07/Apr/2004
Hello again Andrew. The number of nails needed will depend on the spacing of the joists. You will need two nails each time a decking board crosses a joist.

From: Andrew Perri (andrewperri@iprimus.com.au) at 15:02:30 on 07/Apr/2004
How can I calculate how many nails I need for a 3.6m x 11,8m deck with 70mm wide boards

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 16:27:59 on 07/Apr/2004
Hi Andrew. Silicon bronze nails should be available from major fastener companies. If you are having trouble sourcing them, try a marine supply company. Silicon bronze fasteners are commonly used in boatbuilding.

From: Andrew Perri (andrewperri@iprimus.com.au) at 14:59:26 on 07/Apr/2004
do you know of a silicon bronze decking nail supplier for hand nailing

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 12:26:12 on 07/Apr/2004
Hello Rebecca, and welcome to Timber Talk. In Australia MDF is made from pine. Generally, thinnings and small diameter logs are used. The logs are debarked and then chipped. The chips are broken down into fibres, glue is added, and the material is formed into a 'mattress' which is pressed to make it into a board.

From: Rebecca (becklouise199@yahoo.com) at 09:55:57 on 07/Apr/2004
Hello my name is Rebecca and I was wanting to know what is MDF wood made of because I am doing a project in secondary school on MDF for wood technology!!
Thankyou for your time youurs sincerely Rebecca

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 12:07:33 on 07/Apr/2004
Hello Michael and Sharyn. We don't have details of flooring suppliers in the Sydney market, but the Timber and Building Materials Association (TABMA) should be able to advise you. They are based in Surry Hills, and their phone number is 9360 3088. Regarding pitfalls, there aren't too many. Just make sure you understand exactly what the grade names mean in terms of the quality and appearance of the flooring you order. It's also important that the flooring is supplied at a suitable moisture content and stored in a dry place prior to installation. Don't be tempted to lay the flooring as a platform floor, before the building is enclosed! Only sheet products are suitable to be used in this way.

From: Michael and Sharyn Jan (sharyn_jan@optusnet.com) at 09:51:58 on 07/Apr/2004
We are building a home down the South Coast of NSW.
and will be using either spotted gum or blackbutt as the flooring on the top level. We are looking for either a first grade or a select grade for the flooring.
Do you have any places in the Sydney locality where it can be purchased at a reasonable cost. We are looking to purchase 115-120 square metres.
Also are there any pitfalls that we should look for when purchasing the timber.
Many thanks

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 11:58:35 on 07/Apr/2004
Hi Simon. You could try one of the restorative products on the market, which are designed to restore the colour of weathered wood. For example, there is a product called "Reviva" marketed under the Intergrain brand name, and other companies have similar products. If that doesn't work, I think you will have to try sanding back the affected area.

From: Simon (si_shea@yahoo.com) at 09:30:15 on 07/Apr/2004
We have recently had our cleaner pour Domestos cleaning product directly onto our 6 month old oiled Merbau deck. This has left bleached marks on the surface of the timber, we have scrubbed and attempted to re-oil parts of the affected area with no success. Do you have any suggestions to fix or disuise the bleached marks?

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 11:54:50 on 07/Apr/2004
Hello Peter. The phone number for Percheron Acceptance Corporation Pty. Ltd. (Receiver Appointed)(In Liquidation) is (02) 4342 0884 where you need to speak to Julie Garnsey. You might also like to use the search facility on our Timber Talk website to view other correspondence about Percheron. Just type in the word "Percheron" and previous messages will come up.

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