Gidday! We're Harry and Sal.

That's Hardwood Harry and Softwood Sal for those of you out there in timberland who hadn't quite twigged! We reckon there must be millions of people around the globe who like us love forests and wood products, who work with timber and support sustainable timber industries.

Note that Harry & Sal are taking a long holiday and won't be answering any more questions after close of business on Friday, 31st March, 2006. The question and answer section of the website will be closed from that date. Wood users within Australia are advised to contact their State timber advisory service for information. To find your local timber advisory service, go to the National Timber Development Program's website at www.timber.org.au, select 'About Us', and then click on the words 'Timber advisory service'. Overseas inquirers will need to contact an industry organisation in their own country.

While you're here, why don't you have a look at our Timber Tips and Projects?

PS. There are hundreds of questions and answers already posted on Timber Talk. If you're looking for information on a particular topic use our handy search engine (to the left).

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Displaying messages 7601 to 7651 of 19743:

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From: Mal Sporne (sporne.malcolm@saugov,sa,gov,au) at 11:06:51 on 25/Feb/2004
Good Morning
I work for the Public Trustee of South Australia and we have a couple of estates that had holdings in Percheron Acceptance Corp Ltd and Australian Softwood Forests Ltd. Both companies went into receivership in 1989 but we have heard nothing of them since that time.
Have you any information or a current address for the companies?
Thank you for your assistance
Mal Sporne
Trust and Long Term Estates
08 8226 9257 ph
08 8226 9233 fx

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 11:12:50 on 25/Feb/2004
G'day Tom. We don't have any plans for a butcher's block. However, we can suggest some suitable types of timber, based on advice in the book "Commercial Timbers of Australia: Their Properties and Uses". The qualities required are that the timber should be "hardwood, non-fissile [resistant to splitting], and non-splintering". Suggested timbers that fulfill these requirements are red gum, jarrah, tallowood, spotted gum and myrtle-beech.

From: tom inglis (ptinglis@hotmail.com) at 17:04:58 on 24/Feb/2004
G'day harry

I am keen to make a butchers block but am finding it hard to find some plans. Google bought up your sight so I thought it is the way to go.

I would also like to know some of the best types of timber both from the mainland and from Tassie.

Thanks mate

tom

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 11:02:57 on 25/Feb/2004
Hi Karen. Some years ago the National Association of Forest Industries published a datafile titled "Timber in Landscape". I'm sure this will answer all your questions. If you would like to leave another message with your postal address, we will send you a copy.

From: Karen Francis (karenleefrancis@hotmail.com) at 16:25:30 on 24/Feb/2004
Hi There,

I would like to know what sort of woods are suitable for different uses in landscaping. And which require a preservative and what sort of preservatives there are available.I would much appretiate some guidlines / assistance with these topics. Thanks Karen.

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 11:27:50 on 24/Feb/2004
Hello Nagy. When you say "oak" I guess you mean English oak. The Timber Research & Development Association (TRADA) in Buckinghamshire would be your best source of information. They have a website at www.trada.co.uk where you can find further details.

From: nagy rafla (nagy@rafla.fsnet.co.uk) at 10:28:40 on 23/Feb/2004
calculating joist in oak
10x10 cms and 3.5 meter long
12 cms between joist

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 11:01:32 on 24/Feb/2004
Hi Julia. I don't know exactly where you could get bark, but suggest you try your local timber advisory service. For a list of the State advisory services, go to the National Timber Development Program's website at www.timber.org.au and click on the words "timber advisory services". On the website you will find the contact details for the advisory service in your State.

From: Julia Murphy (julia.murphy@purchase.edu) at 10:26:40 on 23/Feb/2004
Hi, I am doing a project on Aboriginal Bark paintings and I need to find a place were I can get Eucaliptus Bark. Please e-mail me back if you can help at julia.murphy@purchase.edu Thanks

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 10:57:02 on 24/Feb/2004
Gidday Lew. I think the technique you have read about is called "radial sawing". The people who do this are Radial Timber Sales Pty. Ltd, in Clayton, Victoria. You can phone them on (03) 9558 4111.

From: lew gray sunshine coast (marylew2001@yahoo.com.au) at 10:18:48 on 24/Feb/2004
i am trying to trace an article by a sawermiller who cut his logs on the diameter of the tree he would cut the tree half way through so that as he cut the boards they would finish taper or wedge shaped wastage was almost nill cutting saw logs this way

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 10:46:47 on 24/Feb/2004
Hi David. You could treat the flooring as a "direct stick" product and glue it to the particleboard in the same way as these products are glued to concrete. The adhesive which is generally recommended is Bostik Ultraset. Alternatively, you could nail it straight to the joists without a particleboard base. Note that only boards up to 85 mm in width are recommended for secret nailing. If you decide to glue the boards onto a particleboard base, be careful not to get glue into the tongue and groove joints. These joints should be regarded as control joints where the timber can move slightly with seasonal changes in moisture content. Further information on the installation of Tasmanian oak flooring is available from the Tasmanian Timber website at www.tastimber.tas.gov.au. Click on "Recent Publications" and then select "Flooring".

From: David Kelso (kelso95@dodo.com.au) at 10:17:20 on 23/Feb/2004
I am building a house & want to use Tasmanian Oak as the floor,I was told i can glue it onto partical board if so what glue should i use,do you only glue the base & not in between the tung & groove & what glue should i use, or should i just nail it onto the joists.I don't like the look of the nails in the top of the board.
Thanks David

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 10:15:47 on 24/Feb/2004
Hi Pam. Sounds like a case of Lyctus borer. The sapwood of some hardwoods is susceptible to attack by this borer. If the dust is very fine, like talc powder, then it's quite likely to be Lyctus. The damage the Lyctus borer can do is limited to the sapwood (outer wood) portion of the tree. It can't attack the heartwood, nor any softwoods. However, it might spoil the look of your clock! Try injecting insecticide into the holes. You can do this with a hypodermic syringe, or by inserting a fine plastic tube into the nozzle of an aerosol. While it certainly sounds like Lyctus borer, of course I can't be absolutely certain without having seen the clock first-hand. You might like to seek an opinion from the BWPDA (British Wood Preserving & Damp-proofing Association), phone 0181 519 2588.

From: Pam (pamboz@tiscali.co.uk) at 23:23:55 on 22/Feb/2004
I seem to have some borers in a wooden mantle clock that I bought some months ago, I have noticed several powdery holes that look distinctively like borer holes to me, and I am sure they are new. Can you tell me how to treat them and stop them infesting my other wooden furniture
Thanks
Pam

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 10:07:36 on 24/Feb/2004
Hello Rajulolo, and welcome to Timber Talk in Australia. As far as we are aware, sal does not grow anywhere else except in India. Regarding its establishment in plantations, I am afraid we do not have any experience of this.

From: rajulolo (rajulolo@yahoo.com) at 18:27:31 on 22/Feb/2004
shorea robusta (sal) is found in India,I want to know in
which other part of world it is found & why its plantation
is very very difficult

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 09:56:43 on 24/Feb/2004
Hi Chris. A company that specialises in recycled timber is Shiver Me Timbers at Williamstown in Victoria. You can phone them on (03) 9397 5993. To find out more about oregon, go to the Timber Development Association of NSW website at www.timber.net.au. and look at their Species Guide. Select "Douglas fir", which is what oregon is called in North America.

From: chris macdonald (macmac@froggy.com.au) at 16:34:13 on 22/Feb/2004
Hi, i am just about to embark on my yr 12 project of a coffee table with storage drawers. I would like to make this out of either oregan or recycled oregan. would you be able to give me some information pertaining to the stockests, growing conditions, forestry..., best finishes, handling etc.
your assistance in this matter is greatly appreciated.
thank you
christopher

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 09:49:17 on 24/Feb/2004
Gidday Terry. I should think any of the major timber merchants in the Sydney metro area would be pleased to supply you with sawdust. However, I don't know whether they can separate the softwood dust from the hardwood. I suggest you talk to someone at TABMA, phone 9360 3088.

From: Terry Grundmann (terry@primetaxexperts.com.au) at 13:10:13 on 22/Feb/2004
Can you assist me? I am looking for a reliable local source of hardwood sawdust close to Sydney. We are in the process of producing building blocks from sawdust and require a large volume to meet our demands.
Thanks Terry 02 9369-1623

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 09:44:16 on 24/Feb/2004
Hi David. If the windows are going to be exposed to rain, it's well worth paying 10% more for western red cedar. The reason why cedar is such a good choice for windows is not because it looks nice (although that is true), but because it is resistant to wood rot and is very stable, with little tendency to swell and shrink. Of course, if the windows are sheltered by a verandah that will keep the rain off, it doesn't matter what they are made of.

From: David J (javezepp@hotmail.com) at 22:56:48 on 23/Feb/2004
Hi,
I'm preparing to owner build my home and would like some help on choosing timber windows.A window manufacturer I've visited suggested using Baltic Pine (from Finland).Other Window manufacturers I've visited have warned me against this. The manufacturer also uses Western red cedar but this would add 10% to the price. I plan to paint the windows (not stain)so the grain appearance is not important.
Thanks in advance!

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 09:26:46 on 24/Feb/2004
Hi Chris. Like all W.A. forests, the jarrah forests have been managed under the principles of sustained yield since the 1930's. In fact, according to one estimate, three-quarters of the jarrah forests had been cut over by the early 1900's, so technically the majority of the current forest is regrowth. Reforestation has been largely by natural regeneration after logging, ie. after harvesting of timber, the area is left for new trees to grow back. Clearly the reason why we still have jarrah forests after more than 100 years of logging is because the forests have been carefully managed to ensure they remain healthy and productive. You can find out more about the jarrah forests from the W.A. Department of Conservation & Land Management. Start by visiting their website at www.calm.wa.gov.au.

From: Chris Keist (cornlovers@aol.com.au) at 17:53:25 on 23/Feb/2004
i need info on jarrah forests and timber and recycling thanks =)

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 17:27:05 on 23/Feb/2004
Hi Grant. We have some DIY projects on line, and also a few we can photocopy on request, but I'm afraid a diamond shaped wine rack isn't one of them. I can only suggest you try your local public library. Some libraries subscribe to DIY magazines and have them indexed by subject.

From: Grant (enquiries@amandt.com.au) at 14:05:50 on 23/Feb/2004

Hi,

Do you have a deisgn for a wine rack in a cube form that can be built to form a diamond shape and hold 2 dozen bottles? Thanks.

Cheers,

Grant.

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 17:13:38 on 23/Feb/2004
Hello Alfred. Merbau/kwila and belian both make good decking, but belian is slightly denser, stronger and more durable. You would probably have to pre-drill belian before nailing to avoid splitting, but the same may apply with merbau, depending on the type of nail gun. So belian is just as good as merbau, if not slightly better, in a harsh environment. The colour and appearance are similar, but remember that the colour will change to a driftwood grey if left uncoated, and if it is stained it will change anyway. Consequently, the natural colour of the wood is not a very good basis on which to make your choice.

From: Alfred Harford (harford@mghlaw.co.nz) at 13:39:02 on 23/Feb/2004
I am building a beach-house. I had specified kwila, but there is a shortge here in NZ. My builder recomends belian as a substitute. Is belian a suitable substitute for kwila decking in a harsh environment? Does belian splinter, if I put it reeded side up? Is it a similar colour to kwila ? - I like the reddish tint of kwila.

Thanks for your assistance.

Alfred Harford

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 17:00:11 on 23/Feb/2004
Hi Judith. Merbau/kwila and belian both make good decking, but belian is slightly denser, stronger and more durable. You would probably have to pre-drill belian before nailing to avoid splitting, but the same may apply with merbau, depending on the type of nail gun. So all things being equal I would probably choose belian, but I suggest you look at a couple of samples before making the final decision. Since you are removing old decking and re-using the same joists, I would also take the opportunity to apply a wood preservative to the top edges of the joists.

From: Judith (judith.abercromby@aihw.gov.au) at 13:07:35 on 23/Feb/2004
What a great site!
I am researching the best timber for an exposed deck in Canberra - searing heat, -6 frosts etc. Looks are important as is durability. I'm quite happy to do maintenance once a year. The decking timber will be fitted (we are replacing existing planks - the joists are all fine) by enthusiastic (!) amateurs who have built a couple of decks before.

The shortlist (quality,price,availability) seems to be down to Merbau (Kwila - same thing I gather) or Belian, the latter being slightly more expensive. Is there much to choose between these two in the long run?
Any comments or other options based on the above scenario.

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 13:24:44 on 23/Feb/2004
Hi Mike. The important issue to consider is the durability of the woods you mention. Durability, or life-span, is related to the properties of the wood and the local climatic conditions. A type of wood which will survive quite well in Wisconsin may fail much more rapidly in southern Mississippi (for example). Neither of the woods you mention are considered highly durable. The US Dept. of Agriculture's "Wood Handbook" rates white pine as "moderately resistant" and hemlock as "slightly or non-resistant" to decay. So neither could be placed in the ground and even out of ground, care would have to be taken to avoid joints that could collect water. All this is partly dependent on the severity of the local climate, as mentioned earlier.

From: Mike Crampton (mikec14@earthlink.net) at 12:34:29 on 23/Feb/2004
What are the advantages/disadvantages of using hemlock vs white pine for outside siding, decking. railing and posts?

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 12:59:53 on 23/Feb/2004
Hello Barath. I'm afraid we don't have any data on logs imported by India. Perhaps there is a government body in India that could provide you with the data you need for your studies. For example, the India Image website at indiaimage.nic.in would be a good place to start.

From: Barath (b4ubarath@yahoo.co.in) at 11:04:14 on 22/Feb/2004
get me data on the imported wood logs to india .., a complete report ., this i want for p[artial fullfilment of my degrr examination

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 12:28:57 on 23/Feb/2004
Dear Sir,
Thank you for your message asking about the availability of seeds. There is a large supplier of seeds in India with a website at www.treeandseeds.com. They can be contacted by e-mail on treeseeds@operamail.com. You will find other suppliers by going to the search box on our Timber Talk page and typing in the word "seeds". Previous questions and answers on the subject will come up.

From: PRATAP KESHARI PATTANAIK (pp_bioinf@yahoo.co.in) at 02:52:31 on 22/Feb/2004
Dear Sir,
i m a scintific advisor and a technical expert in the area of plant biotechnology.we have a volunteer organization organization which deal with protection of environment.we are dealing with medicinal plants,ornamental plants and forest woods.The organization is working in ORISSA sate of INDIA named "green initiative".Recently we r going to launch a program on forest woods for timber.We select Acacia mangium as a good for environment protection and rural forestry programmes.We r also going to do reseach and development on forest woods.One of my Request u to send me information to get seed materials for forest woods for testing in our climate and information abt the organisasation deal with acacia mangium or company in india.kindly send us all available information abt all forest plants u deal.if it can possible plz provide us some materials.

Thanking u.

Pratap keshari pattanaik
Scientific Advisor
GREEN INITIATIVE
QR NO F/70 , UNIT -8
KRUSHIVIHAR
BHUBANESWAR -751003
ORISSA , INDIA

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 12:18:21 on 23/Feb/2004
Hi Johannes. Poisson's Ratios for wood are rather complicated because they vary according to the direction of the grain. There are actually six Poisson's Ratios for a given piece of wood. However, normally we are only concerned with wood in which the grain runs along the length of the member. In this case, the relevant Poisson's Ratios are vLR and vLT, ie. tension or compression acting longitudinally with a passive strain in the radial or tangential direction. We don't have Poisson's Ratios for specific types of wood, only average values for softwood and hardwood. The vLR for softwood is 0.37 and vLT is 0.42. Hope this helps! If you would like us to fax you a more detailed explanation, leave another message with your fax number.

From: Johannes Gerhaher (johannes.gerhaher@web.de) at 23:27:44 on 21/Feb/2004
hi out there,

i am currently working on a thesis about "fiber reinforced timber joints" and i have a question:
what poisson´s ratio (in the different directions) could i use for timber (spruce) for working with it on my FEM-program?
thanks for helping

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 11:51:20 on 23/Feb/2004
Gidday Heather. We can post or fax you a leaflet telling how to install floorboards on concrete. If you would like us to do this, leave another message with your contact details. Regarding cost, you will need to get quotes from contractors.

From: heather (willmac2@optusnet.com.au) at 18:01:58 on 21/Feb/2004
i would like information on laying floorboards on to a concrete slab and the cost

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 11:47:25 on 23/Feb/2004
Hi David. I think kwila/merbau is excellent for benchtops as long as it is kiln dried to a suitable moisture content. We usually recommend a polyurethane floor varnish to seal timber benchtops, because they are tough, resistant to spills and easy to wipe clean.

From: David (sufcoast@iprimus.com.au) at 11:29:44 on 23/Feb/2004
Hi "H", benchtops ref march 2002.were put on the future projects list for awhile but are now in full swing I have used Kwila,(Merbau) depending on which country,and will be very interested in the fitting instructions that you offered .Incidently What do you think of this timber for benchtops and the best product to seal it with Sikkens?? or something completly different especially the wet and work areas Thanking you regardsDavid

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 11:31:53 on 23/Feb/2004
When dealing with a large section such as a stump, it is advisable to slow down the drying process, so splitting and warping are minimised. Some woodworkers pack the wood in sawdust, while others paint it on all surfaces. When the wood is machined into its final form, the paint is removed. Another option is to soak it in polyethylene glycol (PEG). PEG replaces the moisture in the wood so that, in effect, it never shrinks. If you would like a leaflet on the use of PEG, leave another message with your fax number or postal address. Alternatively, log onto the US Forest Products Laboratory website at www.fpl.fs.fed.us and type the words "polyethylene glycol" into their search facility. Research Note FPL-06 will come up. It's fairly old, but still of interest.

From: John (jonb96@sbcglobal.net) at 08:07:10 on 21/Feb/2004
Can the stump of a cotton wood tree be used for a table pedistal. And how do I dry it.

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 11:28:54 on 23/Feb/2004
Hello Judith. Timber products are stable if they are kiln-dried to a suitable moisture content and then put into a stable environment. If they are not dried to an appropriate moisture content, or they are exposed to extremely dry or humid conditions in service, then they will show some instability. Perhaps it is something you should talk over with your supplier.

From: judith (nigelberrisford@tiscali.co.uk) at 07:48:33 on 21/Feb/2004
We have recently purchased a new pine table and after 1 week some of the boards on the table top have warped. Should we complain, or accept the fact that natural products are not stable?

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 11:24:29 on 23/Feb/2004
There are several ways to slow down the drying process, so that splitting and warping are minimised. Some woodworkers pack the timber in sawdust, while others paint it on all surfaces. When the wood is machined into its final form, the paint is removed. Another option is to soak it in polyethylene glycol (PEG). The PEG replaces the moisture in the wood so that, in effect, it never shrinks. If you would like a leaflet on the use of PEG, leave another message with your fax number or postal address.

From: Otto Ippel (chocoripple@nex.net.au) at 22:19:51 on 20/Feb/2004
Yesterday we cut a slab from a large spotted gum (E.Maculata)trunk. Today I have tried unsuccessfully to find advice on how to slowly dry this slab to prevent splitting and warping. We are hoping to make this into a 50 mm thick table top and treat with Organoil hard burnishing oil after drying so do not wish to use Linseed Oil now.

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 15:57:52 on 20/Feb/2004
Dear Sir,
Our website is based in Australia and we know very little about veneer requirements in Sri Lanka. You will need to find a contact in Sri Lanka to pursue your inquiry.

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