Gidday! We're Harry and Sal.

That's Hardwood Harry and Softwood Sal for those of you out there in timberland who hadn't quite twigged! We reckon there must be millions of people around the globe who like us love forests and wood products, who work with timber and support sustainable timber industries.

Note that Harry & Sal are taking a long holiday and won't be answering any more questions after close of business on Friday, 31st March, 2006. The question and answer section of the website will be closed from that date. Wood users within Australia are advised to contact their State timber advisory service for information. To find your local timber advisory service, go to the National Timber Development Program's website at www.timber.org.au, select 'About Us', and then click on the words 'Timber advisory service'. Overseas inquirers will need to contact an industry organisation in their own country.

While you're here, why don't you have a look at our Timber Tips and Projects?

PS. There are hundreds of questions and answers already posted on Timber Talk. If you're looking for information on a particular topic use our handy search engine (to the left).

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Displaying messages 9701 to 9751 of 19743:

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 10:28:47 on 11/Aug/2003
Gidday Terry. I don't have a detailed knowledge of the NSW market and I think your best source of information is going to be your local timber advisory service. In NSW it's the Timber Development Association at Surry Hills, phone 9360 3088.

From: Terry (terryelaine447@hotmail.com) at 11:28:23 on 09/Aug/2003
Could you please tell me who sells king billy pine in southern NSW

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 10:24:00 on 11/Aug/2003
Hi Carl. I'm afraid I'm going to have to refer you to a local wood products association for this information. I don't know what kind of timber is available in your area, and your building codes will be different from ours in Australia. Also we have converted to metric measurements. There's sure to be a wood products association somewhere in your region that could help.

From: Carl Black (carlblack@sbcglobal.net) at 10:42:51 on 09/Aug/2003
What would be the best size and type of wood post that will be roof suports? They need to be 5 foot on center. They will be on a patio and exposed. The patio dementions are 15'X 28'.

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 10:19:51 on 11/Aug/2003
Hi Teedee. Here in Australia we would use silicon bronze nails and probably a Cabot's stain, although there are lots of suitable stains on the market. I don't know where you are, but there may be different products available in your area. Perhaps there is a local wood products organisation that could advise you in more detail. We could post or fax you a data sheet on fixing shakes to a wall if you can't find any help locally. If you would like us to do this, leave another message with your fax number or postal address.

From: teedee (chili_1@charter.net) at 03:55:59 on 09/Aug/2003
I would like to know how to apply cedar shakes on a wall in a pation enclosure and the type of nails and stain to use.

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 17:26:24 on 08/Aug/2003
Hi Richard. I'm sorry, but we only have the plans for a four-poster in hard copy. If you would like to leave another message with your fax number or postal address, we can send them to you that way.

From: Richard (richards@it4africa.com) at 17:10:10 on 08/Aug/2003
Please can you e-mail me plans on how to build a four poster bed

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 17:22:25 on 08/Aug/2003
Hello Ron. That's quite a big warp in your door. It's difficult to say what caused it, but it's usually a sign of uneven drying. By that, I mean it sounds as if one side of the door has been exposed to drier (or wetter) conditions than the other. For example, perhaps the air conditioning has dried the inner face of the door more than the outer face. In this event, we would expect the door to show a concave bow when viewed from inside. If the outside surface of the door is exposed to rain, the same result would occur. The initial moisture content of the timber can also play a part. For example, if the door was made from laminates with a moisture content of 14% and the door then dried down to, say 11%, one would expect a little movement, although not as much as you describe. It is also important that all surfaces of the door are sealed, including the top edge, bottom edge, and sides. The bottom edge is frequently overlooked because the door is often hung by the time the painters arrive on site. I hope these comments are of some assistance. You might also like to discuss it with your local timber advisory service. Assuming you are somewhere in New South Wales, your State advisory service is the Timber Development Association, phone 9360 3088.

From: Ron Ong (rono@sjph.com.au) at 16:57:34 on 08/Aug/2003
A glue laminated Sydney Red Gum front door, 1200 wide x 2800 high x 31mm thick has warped vertically 8mm and horizontally by 13mm. The door faces East and the internal is air conditioned.Finish on door is Satin 2 pack polyurethane. What caused the failure ? Will a 40mm thick door be better to withstand the warping ? Is glulem itself is not appropriate for external application ? Is there a clause in any Australian Standard which states that this size of door do not comply with the standard and therefor carries no guarantee ?

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 15:56:51 on 08/Aug/2003
Hi Sally. Sandalwood is a root hemi-parasite, meaning it depends on host trees for some of its nutrients and water. It needs to grow next to suitable host trees so its fine feeder roots can attach to host roots. Host trees are generally Acacias or Eucalypts. Timber Queensland might be able to provide you with more detailed information, phone (07) 3254 1989.

From: sally (wentch@hotmail.com) at 15:25:53 on 08/Aug/2003
just wondering what companion plants to grow with sandalwood - not sure which s.wood, but i think it's australian. can i just grow any native?
thanks

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 11:34:57 on 08/Aug/2003
Hi Mike, and thanks for your message about your eucalypt poles and posts. We will post your message on our website so any interested parties can see it and respond directly to you.

From: Mike Moenck (Eucalyptus Grandis F.S.C Poles and Posts.) at 09:24:31 on 08/Aug/2003
We are manufacturers's of Wooden Poles& Posts F.S.C.certified ,We can offer also cca treated or untreated. Let us know about your needs.Deal directly with the manufacturer.We are in Uruguay , South America.We export tomore than 18 countries.

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 11:32:15 on 08/Aug/2003
Hi Owen. I am sorry, but we don't have any expertise in valuing standing timber. It might be necessary to engage a consultant forester to inspect the trees and then give you a valuation as it will depend to some extent on the size and form of the trees. The Association of Consulting Foresters could suggest someone suitable. They can be contacted on (02) 6239 7276, or by e-mail acfa@ozemail.com.au.

From: Owen Johnsen (owen_david@bigpond.com) at 09:12:34 on 08/Aug/2003
I wonder if you could give me an idea to what mature (20yrs +) pine trees (slash) are worth. How is the price calculated?

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 11:28:02 on 08/Aug/2003
Gidday Richard. The phone number for Percheron Acceptance Corporation Pty. Ltd. (Receiver Appointed)(In Liquidation) is (02) 4342 0884 where you need to speak to Julie Garnsey.

From: Richard Waugh (r.waugh@optusnet.com.au) at 09:03:15 on 08/Aug/2003
Do you have a phone contact for those winding up Percheron as I am trying to help out with a deceased estate that has 30 acres of holding certificates.. Any assistance would be appreciated.

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 11:25:12 on 08/Aug/2003
Hi Louis. Some eucalypts will "coppice" readily, meaning they will shoot and produce one or more new trunks if they are cut back to a stump. However, I think the tree is unlikely to recover if the stump is ground down to 8 inches below the surface. If you want to make sure, apply a herbicide to the stump.

From: Louis (louis@kerna.ie) at 03:11:30 on 08/Aug/2003
Hi,
We have a big eucalyptus tree in out garden which we are looking to have removed (it overshadows everything else). We plan to sow grass seed or a flowerbed in its place. One tree-removal company has proposed cutting it down and grinding the tree stump down to 8 inchese below the surface of the soil. Do you know if this will this really be enough to prevent the tree from growing back, as I believe that these are very resilient trees that will bounce back from most things?

Thanks for any advice.

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 11:18:18 on 08/Aug/2003
Hi Anthony. I don't know what the planks on top would be - Huon pine is not generally reddish in colour. If it is another Tasmanian timber, perhaps it is King William pine. Regarding repairs to the split planks, an epoxy filler will work quite well but is difficult to colour match if it is in a place where it will be seen. Perhaps the best option would be to replace the two boards if you can get them off easily. If you take a sample to a local timber merchant, they might be able to tell you what it is, or supply some timber that looks the same. I wouldn't bother with tar. It's very messy to handle and would only be used in boatbuilding or some other situation where moisture penetration was an issue.

From: Anthony Clements (maxi@hotkey.net.au) at 01:38:03 on 08/Aug/2003
Peter, I'm about to start renovating a refectory style table that I'm told is well over a hundred years old (e.g. the top is two planks of a very reddish timber, each being over half a metre wide and it has been suggested to me that the cross style legs could be Huon Pine - they are very light weight but strong) and I would like some advice as to either replacing the two timber boards that sit between the top planks and the cross legs at either end (e.g. it has quite severe cracks and holes from previous nails and screws) or which type/brand of filler I could use to fill the holes & cracks. Also I read somewhere about 'tar' being used to protect wood that is glued & screwed together. Hope you can help. Many thanks, Anthony

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 11:05:30 on 08/Aug/2003
Hi Peter. I'm sorry, but I only have contacts within Australia. I can only suggest you find a website in Japan that deals with secondhand equipment. Perhaps the Japan Wood Research Society could point you in the right direction. We don't have a website or e-mail address, but their fax number was +81-3-3818-6568 last time we made contact.

From: Peter Baker (dobee@xtra,co,nz) at 19:11:15 on 07/Aug/2003
Wanting to make contact witha second hand sawmill equipment supplier.ex Japan. Are you able to assist me on this matter. Cheers.

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 17:19:20 on 07/Aug/2003
Hello Ann-Marie. If you are considering a 'solid' timber floor over concrete I guess you are thinking of a direct-stick floor, because putting the flooring on battens would raise the height too much. Direct-stick flooring works well on dry slabs, and since you are renovating I assume the slab has been down for some time. It's also important to make sure no water enters under doors or via windows. The only disadvantage of direct-stick flooring that I can think of is that it is difficult to remove if you want to renovate again at some future time. A floating floor is easy to remove because it is not fixed down to the concrete. A floating floor may or may not look like an authentic, traditional timber floor, but this is something you will have to assess when considering different products. A floating floor will also only have a relatively thin layer of wood on the surface and therefore the amount of sanding and resealing that can be carried out is limited in the event that the floor becomes scratched or damaged. Again, you will have to consider this according to your likely use of the room in which the floor will be laid.

From: Ann-Marie Fletcher (afletcher@bigpond.com) at 15:32:32 on 07/Aug/2003
I am renovating family room which has a concrete slab and I want to put down a timber floor. I am trying to decide between solid timber and floating timber and would like to know the advantages/disadvantages and differences between the two apart from cost.

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 15:08:24 on 07/Aug/2003
Hi Morgan. We have a very informative technical bulletin prepared by Mirotone, which deals with sealing MDF to prevent cracking and other moisture-related problems. If you would like us to send you a copy, leave another message with your fax number or postal address.

From: morgan (vasboy1@hotmail.com) at 14:34:45 on 07/Aug/2003
what is the best sealer for mdf to help prevent warpage when exposed to moisture.

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 14:25:12 on 07/Aug/2003
Hi Russell. Most of the State timber advisory organisations have literature on building decks, and it's better to contact your local body because different timbers are available in different parts of Australia. For a list of the State advisory services, go to the National Timber Development Program's website at www.timber.org.au and click on the words "timber advisory services".

From: russell (igloo@iprimus .com.au) at 13:33:14 on 07/Aug/2003
could you please give me information on the construction of exterior decking

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 12:35:16 on 07/Aug/2003
Hi Laura. The answer depends on whether we are talking about trees growing in natural forests, or seedlings raised in a nursery and then planted out in plantations. In natural forests, spotted gum produces a heavy seed crop at intervals of 5-8 years and regenerates naturally. Plantations are established by raising seedlings in containers and then planting them out when they are old enough to survive in the open.

From: laura schultz (lschultz@loreto.nsw.edu.au) at 12:10:28 on 07/Aug/2003
Hi. I am currently doing a very important assignment at school and I cannot find the information on two specific questions. How does a spotted gum begin life? How does it grow?
Thank you, Laura.

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 12:29:18 on 07/Aug/2003
Hi Craig. I think we were just suggesting that the building surveyor could use Australian Standard 1720 Part 4, "Fire-resistance of structural timber members" as a reference. An engineer can use this Standard to establish the fire rating for any structural timber members, including pine building poles. We didn't have anything major to send, but will put a couple of relevant things together for you.

From: craig cameron (craig@cameronstimber.com.au) at 11:52:31 on 07/Aug/2003
peter,can you please send info on fire ratings for certified pine building poles to p.o.box 264 batemans bay nsw 2536
thanks.
you tried to fax me before but got the header only.

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 12:22:54 on 07/Aug/2003
Hi Bruce. If you would like to leave another message with your fax number or postal address, we could send you a data sheet on staircase design.

From: Bruce MacLatchy (bmaclatc@bigpond.net.au) at 11:22:52 on 07/Aug/2003
information required please on building an internal staircase

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 12:08:07 on 07/Aug/2003
Hi Suzanne. Pressure treated wood (usually pine) gives good service if it is coated with a water repellent. A lot of people assume it doesn't need any maintenance because it is treated against wood rot, but they fail to consider weathering effects. This is covered in more detail on the USDA's Forest Products Laboratory website at www.fpl.fs.fed.us. In the FAQ menu, click on the heading "Painting & Finishing Factsheets" and then go to "Finishes for Wood Decks". Ipé is certainly a good alternative to pressure treated wood and because it is a naturally durable timber it can be left without a coating, as long as you don't mind it losing its natural colour. It is less absorbent than treated pine, and therefore less prone to the swelling and shrinking which eventually causes 'checks' or cracks in the surface. Consequently, it is less important to apply a water repellent coating. When you refer to 'composites' I assume you mean particleboard and other reconstituted wood products. Generally we would agree that these products are better used indoors, and do not last well under full weather exposure (unless there is some product we don't know about).

From: Suzanne (javamom@comcast.net) at 10:32:48 on 07/Aug/2003
We are having a deck built in the next couple of weeks in our backyard overlooking a barish creek. Due to the known problems and maintenence with pressure treated wood, we were looking into using a composite decking for the top and benches. We heard about the possibility of these composites to break down in as few as 10 years, have you heard that? Also, we were told to look into Ipe since it was a "wet" area. What are your thoughts on this?? Thanks!

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 10:26:22 on 07/Aug/2003
Hi Mary. Although we've had heaps of messages about Paulownia, I don't have any personal experience in growing or managing it. I think the best organisation for you to contact would be the American Paulownia Association. The Association is based in Hagerstown, Maryland and has a Web site at www.paulowniatrees.org which will give you more info. You could also do a search of our previous questions and answers by typing the word "Paulownia" into the search box on our Timber Talk page.

From: Mary Booth (ark219elm@hotmail.com) at 04:11:18 on 07/Aug/2003
I planted two paulownia trees 4 years ago. This year we cut them down as they are not for home landscaping. (messy when blooming, when droping leaves and now trees are sprouting all the yard, front and back, from tree roots. HOW CAN I GET RID OF THIS INVASIVE PEST? We have had so much rain here in Tuscaloosa and I am sure that has added to the problem. Hello to Peter Lewellyn from the Booths in Arcadia. I welcome any help to control this problem.

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 10:17:26 on 07/Aug/2003
Hi Dave. To access the Multi-Residential Timber Framed Construction manuals via the net, go to the National Timber Development Program's website at www.timber.org.au and click on the MRTFC link. If you would like us to post you hard copies we will, of course, need your postal address.

From: dave pelikan (dandtpelikan@hotmail.com) at 21:24:16 on 06/Aug/2003
could you please send me a copy of the " multi residential timber framed construction 1,2 and 3

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 10:13:25 on 07/Aug/2003
Hello Ben. Tasmanian oak is a commercial term which covers a mixture of three similar species, mountain ash, alpine ash and messmate stringybark. The shear modulus, or modulus of rigidity (G) varies according to the stress grade of the material. If we are talking about 'clear' Tasmanian oak, free of knots and substantially free of gum veins, and we select alpine ash as the definitive species, it would be reasonable to assume a stress grade of F22 for seasoned material. The average modulus of rigidity corresponding to this stress grade is 1,070 MPa.

From: ben gaffney (bengaffney68@hotmail.com) at 20:52:33 on 06/Aug/2003
Does anybody know the shear modulus (stress) of tasmanian oak?

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 09:58:58 on 07/Aug/2003
Hi Michael. Red cedar grows quickly if all goes well, but it is susceptible to the red cedar tip moth which may hinder growth so that the tree only grows to a shrubby bush. CSIRO has carried out some field trials to investigate genetic differences in various seed sources, particularly insect resistance. You may wish to contact John Larmour who has been responsible for much of this work. John is based in Canberra and his e-mail address is John.Larmour@csiro.au.

From: michael sterling (michael.j.sterling@uts.edu.au) at 19:27:10 on 06/Aug/2003
At what age do australian red cedar trees reach a suitable maturity for harvesting?
What might be the size and weight of a tree be at harvest?
How many cubic metres of timber might one tree yield?

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From: Softwood Sal (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 15:08:46 on 06/Aug/2003
Gidday Andrew. I don't have sufficient knowledge of the Victorian market to answer that question, but I suggest you phone the Timber Merchants Association. Their phone number is (03) 9875 5000.

From: Andrew Kincaid (akincaid@vicbar.com.au) at 14:23:04 on 06/Aug/2003
Gidday
I want to build in rusticated weatherboard (like the old colonial houses in Wellington, New Zealand) but am not inclined to use a reconstituted product (Hardies/Weathertex etc. Can you direct me to timber merchants in Victoria who might supply such profiles. Many thanks
Andrew Kincaid

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From: Hardwood Harry (peter.llewellyn@bigpond.com) at 11:19:33 on 06/Aug/2003
Hi Sally. The botanical name of ipé is Tabebuia ipé. Other Tabebuia species are also sold as ipé or lapacho. Tabebuia species belong to the Bignoniaceae family. The botanical name for mahogany is Swietenia macrophylla, which belongs to the Meliaceae family, so the two are no relation. Shorea maxwelliana produces the timber called balau or selangan batu, again no relation to mahogany, and much harder and denser than mahogany.

From: Sally Alexander (SALEXANDER@CCLCO.COM) at 06:52:04 on 06/Aug/2003
We are interested in finding out if IPE is in the Mahogany family, also what exactly is Shorea maxwelliana? Does this fall into the Mahogany family. If not, what species is it?

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